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                                                           What, Me Cook?



                                                                                                           called Frozen Dinners, Inc. (They sold their
      BY RANDAL C. HILL                                                                                    product locally and under the odd brand name
                                                                                                           of One-Eyed Eskimo.) By the early 1950s,
          In the early 1950s, appliance manufac-                                                           American markets were already offering
      turers  began  offering  refrigerators  with                                                         entrées of frozen steaks and pizzas, and
      freezer compartments. Frozen fish, meat                                                              Swanson itself sold a popular frozen chicken
      and vegetables began appearing in markets                                                            pot pie.
      at about the same time. Also growing in                                                                  By 1953 television sets could be found in
      popularity was the unrelated phenomenon                                                              over half of the nation’s homes. Swanson —
      of television.                                                                                       with much more marketing clout than the
          Eventually all three coalesced into a con-                                                       folks behind One-Eyed Eskimo — promoted
      cept that would radically alter the eating                                                           their frozen meals under the brand name TV
      experience of the traditional American family.       © mg7, BIGSTOCK.COM                             Dinners, with cartons that featured images
          And it all started with lots of unsold meat.   on an aluminum tray. Thomas experienced           of a wood-grained television cabinet and
          Accounts vary as to the actual develop-        a “light bulb” idea moment and sketched a         various knobs.
      ment of so-called “TV dinners,” the most           food-tray design on an envelope.                      When the heated meals proved too hot
      frequently told involving an oversupply of            Back in Omaha he presented his idea to         to balance on one’s lap while watching tele-
      260 tons of turkey meat in 1953.                   the Swanson honchos, glibly explaining,           vision, another invention — the folding TV
          Supposedly an especially warm turkey           “Look,  what  if  you  put  frozen  turkey  in    tray — quickly solved the problem.
      breeding season had resulted in a warehouse        here and cornbread dressing in there and              With more women staying in the postwar
      full of surplus meat owned by C. A. Swanson        sweet potatoes in there? Stick the whole          workforce, frozen dinners proved to be a god-
      and Sons of Omaha, Neb. To keep their prod-        thing in the oven, and in less than half an       send to many harried homemakers exhausted
      uct from spoiling, Swanson used refrigerated,      hour — no fuss, no bother — you’ve got            by the day’s end. But women were often
      turkey-stuffed boxcars that rumbled back and       a meal!”                                          still expected to fix dinner, and some men,
      forth across the Midwest while the company            The idea of cooking food and freezing it for   resisting change, hated the idea of eating
      frantically worked on a plan.                      later consumption wasn’t really new. A New        once-frozen food rather than fresh.
          Gerry Thomas, a Swanson sales executive,       York outfit called W. L. Maxson had provided          “Men said they would divorce their wives
      had flown to Pittsburgh for a sales meeting        meals consisting of meat, a vegetable, and a      if they were served our dinners” Thomas once
      earlier in 1953. On his flight Pan American        potato for the navy during World War II.          explained. “I got a lot of hate mail. They said
      Airlines had served their passengers a hot            In  1949  brothers  Meyer  and  Albert         we were ruining family life.” ISI
      meal of meat, potatoes, vegetables and dessert     Bernstein had started a Pittsburgh company


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